After window, “lampshade” is the next word that comes to mind
when stained glass is mentioned. Decorative windows were
permanently installed in residences, became passive items — taken
for granted — and remained when the property was sold. By
contrast, stained glass lighting was the only portable form of
stained glass. Dining room lamps and table lamps were often
handed down through the family or sold as tastes changed and
generations passed.
Lampshades are active, compared to a passive window, since they’re
used for general or mood lighting. The original glass
lampshades of the early 20th century were lit by low wattage bulbs
and cast soft light into the room. The current high wattage
bulbs cast a much brighter light and generate higher heat
temperatures for lampshades. As a result, antique lamps are lit
with lower watt bulbs to retain the true, intended appearance by the
craftsmen as well as to protect the shade's metal construction from
the bulb's heat.
There are several points to consider when deciding on your
lampshade. First, is purpose —do you want it to provide
accent light or room and task lighting? The purpose will
dictate the size of the shade. A suitable size for a dining
room or kitchen table should be at least 12" in diameter to
disperse light to the edges of the table. Uninterrupted light
will travel in a shape matching the profile of the shade, downward
from under the shade, and depending on its height from the tabletop
will influence the radius of the light.
Pool table stained glass lights are rectangular-shaped to
illuminate the corner pockets, while round or square tables for card
playing or dining will usually have round or large, square shapes to
cast light evenly on the table top. Small accent lighting using
a shade 6" to 8" in diameter will give small areas of light
directly around the lamp base but not much beyond, again depending on
the height of the base. The density of the glass mutes the
light transmitted through the sides of a glass shade unless it is
beveled or cathedral type glass.
Here’s the next point to consider: the choice of glass.
Any shade made of cathedral, antique or wispy and translucent
glass will show the electrical components and light bulb. This
glass will work for a hanging lampshade with a multi-arm candelabra
and clear flame bulbs that are intended to be seen. It is not a
good fit for a table lamp with the harp, socket and single bulb
glaring on the top of the lamp base.
The usual choice is an opaque or opalescent glass that hides the
hardware and avoids the hot spot created by the bulb. Transparent
or bevel accents can be used in an area of the shade that doesn’t
directly face into the bulb. If you plan to use cathedral
glass, think about using a heavy textured glass that breaks up the
glare of the bulb and hides the hardware.
Another choice you’ll make is the actual shape of the shade,
although this is somewhat determined by the use of the light.
You’ll also need to decide what size base goes with your shade.
There’s no real hard and fast rule, although there are guidelines
you can follow. The lampshade and base have to be in reasonable
proportion to each other. A shade that’s too small will look
awkward, and a shade that’s too large will appear to swallow the
base. If it’s too wide, it could easily tip over, too.
You’ll also want to match the style of the base to the style of
the lampshade. A simple lampshade would look out of place on an
ornately decorated base, and vice versa. A multi-piece shade with
various colors and design would overwhelm an understated, minimalist
base. Try the shade on several bases once you determine a
height and step back to look. In the end it’s a matter of
personal preference – make sure you’re happy with the balance of
lamp and shade size and style.
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